tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37764000173090742892024-03-05T09:13:05.012+00:00Bloody DiceAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05614644689362134524noreply@blogger.comBlogger236125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-35459866206860023562014-06-23T12:00:00.000+01:002014-06-23T12:04:37.942+01:00Moving on from BLOODYdice<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2b7Pv8451zFkZwkHmE0EIzfWo0MK6rnhDU4WMOUAM4vECxiZG0OG8s7tp0q7sHyV_MXzwGmeMulQWNsXjbjmLLQ5Dq3OADbPeUKdc-Cwetzk2CsATuXkML6H-88W3XVqWjb_7dDL22k/s1600/The+Twelve+Olympians+-+Logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2b7Pv8451zFkZwkHmE0EIzfWo0MK6rnhDU4WMOUAM4vECxiZG0OG8s7tp0q7sHyV_MXzwGmeMulQWNsXjbjmLLQ5Dq3OADbPeUKdc-Cwetzk2CsATuXkML6H-88W3XVqWjb_7dDL22k/s1600/The+Twelve+Olympians+-+Logo.png" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
A few years ago I setup this blog as a place to track my projects and events that I had attended. Collaborating authors have joined me along the way and the family grew as it were. We are now at a point where the projects I am working on have outgrown this little blog as sad as that may be. After the Bristol Vanquish tournament this year I was invited to start a new website, this website would be used to setup gaming and painting events and we called it <a href="http://thetwelveolympians.co.uk/" target="_blank">The Twelve Olympians</a>.<br />
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At almost the same time myself and my painting Sensei Joel decided to dive into the world of commission painting. This has been a success thus far and we are hoping that this project named <a href="http://fiftyshadesofwray.co.uk/" target="_blank">Fifty Shades of Wray</a> (my surname is Wray just to clarify ;) ) and The Twelve Olympians will be able to work closely to put on the best gaming and painting events in the UK.<br />
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Thank you all for the support of this blog over the past few years and I really hope that you continue to follow me in my eternal hobby quest via these new websites.<br />
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Best regards,<br />
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Martok/Zeus/Richard/Whoever else I feel like being today<br />
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<br />Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-700014139000278052014-05-02T12:04:00.001+01:002014-05-02T12:19:36.910+01:00Hobby - Mordheim Board and Terrain Part 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Welcome to the fourth part of our Mordheim terrain series, this time we'll be concentrating on the building construction work that has been going on in support of the epic board we've been making.<br />
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More after the break...</div>
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Firstly, if you're only just checking out this series, check out the links for the first three posts:<br />
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Part 1: <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain.html">http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain.html</a><br />
Part 2: <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain-part-2.html">http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain-part-2.html</a><br />
Part 3: <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain-part-3.html">http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain-part-3.html</a><br />
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I'll let the pictures do most of the talking and just show you all the progress on the various buildings we've made so far.<br />
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This building uses a small foundation of Hirsts Arts moulds to elevate it above the ground, with HA moulds being used for the floor too. The upper levels will have balsa wood flooring.<br />
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This building has the whole first floor made from bricks, with the second and above floors being made from a timber frame with wattle and daub, much like the Tudor houses of yesteryear.</div>
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We wanted to create buildings that gave us a variety of different levels to fight from, as well as gaps to allow makeshift bridges to be placed between buildings. You can see some of the bridges in the first picture in this post, and I'll post some more pictures of them next week.</div>
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Using the Mordheim building sprue, we added windows and doors to the buildings. Because of the number of window frames and doorways we'll be needing, we'll be casting these sprues so we don't run out.</div>
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As you can see, we ran out of windows at this point. Better get casting!</div>
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Check back next week for some Warband WIP shots of my Mercenaries and some more terrain goodness!</div>
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Have a good weekend!</div>
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- Dangermouse425</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-74515226875251804022014-04-30T12:18:00.002+01:002014-04-30T12:29:47.227+01:00Hobby - Mordheim Board and Terrain Part 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Another Mordheim Terrain update in our Mordheim Board and Terrain series.<br />
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Part 1: <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain.html">http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain.html</a><br />
Part 2: <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain-part-2.html">http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain-part-2.html</a><br />
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In today's post we'll take a look at the almost-fully constructed 4'x4' board, as well as some extra sections we've created to add variety to the games. <br />
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Here's the board with almost all of the tiles complete, including one of the bridge crossings. We'll have another bridge made on the right hand side, where you can see the wall gives way slightly. Warriors can also use the steps into the river, where they can wade across and use the lower ground to hide from enemy archers!<br />
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Click "Read more" for more Morheimy goodness!</div>
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These raised sections allow us to create more depth to the board, and can be used to make alleys and channels for our warbands to fight within. Mordheim is a fantastically claustrophobic game, with warband members getting separated and having to fight like cornered rats (sometimes literally in the case of Skaven!) on the streets of the City of the Damned.<br />
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The raised sections were created with Hirsts Arts blocks as usual, and small wooden blocks were used to provide structural support to the sections, see here.<br />
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A wooden board is added in order to provide the base for more plaster blocks.<br />
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The top is slowly covered with cobbled slabs, and small resin barrels and crates will be added to add some variety and cover to the board. Here we see a lonely crossbowman taking up a fire position to engage something on the hobby desk. (Probably shooting at some unpainted Elysians...)<br />
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Here we have the complete raised section. We thought about making the steps longer, but the scale looked off. Form over function! Who cares for wobbly model syndrome when your board looks great, right? Here our intrepid crossbowman can be seen balancing rather nicely on the smaller-scale steps. Note the small section of empty space on the plateau which will be filled in with sand and rubble to add further variety to the flat space, much like the larger sections on the main board.<br />
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Finally, an example of what the raised section could be used for, with one of the original Mordheim cardboard buildings. I will be posting some updates on our own building construction in the next few days and weeks.<br />
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Thanks for checking out Part 3 of the Mordheim series. <br />
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Part 4 will be posted on Friday, which will show some of the buildings we're making. <br />
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If I can get my Mercenaries warband complete, I might post some pictures of them on Thursday.<br />
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- Dangermouse425<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-22133397197845433062014-04-22T13:41:00.000+01:002014-04-30T12:27:54.873+01:00Hobby - Mordheim Board and Terrain Part 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I posted about our intent to make a Mordheim board for an upcoming campaign in a recent post last week. See here for the first post in the series: <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain.html">http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/hobby-mordheim-board-and-terrain.html</a><br />
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Our board is made up from Hirst Arts moulds, you can see what they look like whilst being cast above. These moulds are designed to be used with plaster, and we're using Crystacal R dental plaster. While expensive, it's a lot more durable than the cheaper Plaster of Paris (PoP). PoP tends to chip quite badly and then you're left with a glaring white scab of plaster ruining your scenery.<br />
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Click "Read more" to check out the initial build stages of the board.</div>
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Plaster can even be dyed using plaster/cement dye from your local DiY shop, so if you're worried about stark white plaster on damaged scenery, you could even dye it a darker colour.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRkD24fx-o85GHRRDByuCjjtK6PTGmo48RlmsHb1uON_hTSnMAULS75PkBRk-eqxI6R3mLeWUz6dZ_Vm-lnqIdKZjl9xjng_AsRCE6pQp_dbRlEmKbvZe-1NHH6SeKHxi-b20jQRGOSMI/s1600/058+-+Board+Blocks+in+a+corner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRkD24fx-o85GHRRDByuCjjtK6PTGmo48RlmsHb1uON_hTSnMAULS75PkBRk-eqxI6R3mLeWUz6dZ_Vm-lnqIdKZjl9xjng_AsRCE6pQp_dbRlEmKbvZe-1NHH6SeKHxi-b20jQRGOSMI/s1600/058+-+Board+Blocks+in+a+corner.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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We're making a table by using three 2'x4' sections, crafted in MDF to provide a base. The raised board base allows us to put a river into the board, which will be crossed by bridges made from Hirst Arts moulds.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0gpEqDlVHRnchm2afYtTNpFtnJF4XgkKLZVTd18VWi4k9jxMIjMlChs92Msa6Dk0lWgfcDstcGMSjvhHGSEfoNeRbzo5kj5D0ciKIayOUqQmrijJj_CbQoK_j0t5LgaoI5YeOYy6g0w/s1600/072+-+Bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0gpEqDlVHRnchm2afYtTNpFtnJF4XgkKLZVTd18VWi4k9jxMIjMlChs92Msa6Dk0lWgfcDstcGMSjvhHGSEfoNeRbzo5kj5D0ciKIayOUqQmrijJj_CbQoK_j0t5LgaoI5YeOYy6g0w/s1600/072+-+Bridge.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The flat surfaces of the board will be broken up with detritus, scrap and craters. Here's an example of one of the craters below. Much like the damaged buildings and ruined fortifications that populate our war-torn landscapes of the 41st millennium, Mordheim scenery represents the damned city after the comet and subsequent destruction. It's safe to say that the buildings won't be in great condition and the whole board will show evidence of damage, warpstone taint and bloodthirsty skirmishes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmw4I_jDSPueWXseTGIlA8mpD__Ol_7ISTJrx4dmElXhBzFgEWyF1DayRaMOZCBX6E9oWw7IW9ua4cgC_obVpvhM9ucdkodQ2tLW4BAZOP5vU1QVHWWVHw4prngh-zkPtEv5cosu-aCI/s1600/060+-+Board+Initial+Stages.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmw4I_jDSPueWXseTGIlA8mpD__Ol_7ISTJrx4dmElXhBzFgEWyF1DayRaMOZCBX6E9oWw7IW9ua4cgC_obVpvhM9ucdkodQ2tLW4BAZOP5vU1QVHWWVHw4prngh-zkPtEv5cosu-aCI/s1600/060+-+Board+Initial+Stages.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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Check back next week for more progress on the Mordheim Board and Terrain saga!</div>
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- Dangermouse425</div>
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ps: More information on Hirst Arts moulds can be found here: <a href="http://www.hirstarts.com/">http://www.hirstarts.com/</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-22780044419840608342014-04-18T12:57:00.001+01:002014-04-30T12:28:32.679+01:00Hobby - Mordheim Board and Terrain<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiivHuYVVCdQEswbzO8enKUBJfNklpUjCy9Yq2YtTGrFfFN6gGSZkQ4fuCFs3WuAh1pNwBbwH26aWLd1HJy_P58U6m7lhWaPkOjhhPc1giWCzLTaMMaq3YwGjbqSKjuIp5f9z1DgbigEA4/s1600/Mordheim+Front+Cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiivHuYVVCdQEswbzO8enKUBJfNklpUjCy9Yq2YtTGrFfFN6gGSZkQ4fuCFs3WuAh1pNwBbwH26aWLd1HJy_P58U6m7lhWaPkOjhhPc1giWCzLTaMMaq3YwGjbqSKjuIp5f9z1DgbigEA4/s1600/Mordheim+Front+Cover.jpg" height="219" width="320" /></a></div>
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Well, it's been a while since we've posted. Work still continues to keep me away from my hobby desk and Martok has been busy painting his Minotaurs, playing in a tournament and now taking a well deserved rest. (Undoubtedly hatching more mad-cap schemes during his rest though!)<br />
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More after the jump.<br />
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Our gaming group played a small Mordheim game last year and we are running another one at the end of May. Since we had a lot of 40k terrain, we played our games with that, but this time we decided to make a dedicated board with scratch-built scenery that would make our small skirmishes in the infamous City of the Damned even more awesome.<br />
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Over the next few days, I'll be posting the progress we've made on the board as well as the buildings themselves. I'll also be uploading pictures of my WiP warbands, and trying to grab some photos of the opposing warbands off the other guys too. <br />
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I was guilty of using proxies and unpainted models in the last campaign, so this time I am determined to have a fully WYSIWYG and fully painted warband from the start. <br />
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I will be playing Mercenaries, either as Reiklanders or Marienburgers.<br />
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My opponents include:<br />
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- Witch Hunters<br />
- Skaven<br />
- Undead<br />
- Dwarfs<br />
- Carnival of Chaos<br />
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For now, I'll sign off, check back into BLOODYdice next week for some Mordheimy goodness.<br />
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- Dangermouse425</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-65528412642710707992014-03-24T12:00:00.000+00:002014-03-24T12:00:00.611+00:00Painting - Last batch of Minotaurs before Vanquish 2014<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I am running very close to my deadline. This is starting to look a little worrying!! However, fear not, basecoats are down on the vehicles and this should gather speed very soon. See where I am at right now, after the jump.<br />
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After these are done I need to put everything together. Cast some bases. Paint the bases. Throw some pigments about. Done. Maybe...<br />
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MartokMartokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-79339423085622861252014-03-19T12:00:00.000+00:002014-03-19T12:00:01.766+00:00Showcase - Lelith Hesperax by PaintMyBits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqG3P3S-A2Kt4kzgYJUnLapsY_iK2yyc-GWdeJrvXLxJZuo_dGl4kOtiyr4tAEXVKUTIZDwqyrXviPHZCK_uuhrNyPHh4xAlbJQAhdd_-3OxzRopM51P3tEvmz83L2aKuKDpzzfvHc4Y/s1600/Lelith+Hesperax+Close+Up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqG3P3S-A2Kt4kzgYJUnLapsY_iK2yyc-GWdeJrvXLxJZuo_dGl4kOtiyr4tAEXVKUTIZDwqyrXviPHZCK_uuhrNyPHh4xAlbJQAhdd_-3OxzRopM51P3tEvmz83L2aKuKDpzzfvHc4Y/s1600/Lelith+Hesperax+Close+Up.jpg" /></a></div>
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Joel from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Paintmybits?fref=ts" target="_blank">PaintMyBits</a> has been working on another commission in between batching his Raptors for Vanquish 2014. This time he has turned his hand to the pale skinned evil space elves of the 40k universe and painted a beautiful version of Lelith Hesperax.</div>
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More pics after the page break.</div>
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You may have noticed that Joel has changed his signature (seen on the back of the base) this is in line with a new project that we are setting up together. We shall be pooling our abilities and you shall be seeing a great deal more of us in the months to come. Further details will of course be splashed everywhere, when the time is right.</div>
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Martok</div>
<br />Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-61553041968264431802014-03-17T12:00:00.000+00:002014-03-17T12:00:00.812+00:00Painting - Minotaur MK4 Centurions almost finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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With a little over two weeks left before Vanquish 2014 I am working feverishly to finish my Minotaurs. Things are starting to come together but my blogging has definitely suffered as I spend every moment not at work building drop pods and prepping parts for the last stage of the painting process. </div>
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All of the infantry are at a stage where the traditional brush work is finished bar painting the guns and some heads separately from the main models.</div>
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The Centurions are one such unit at that stage. Read on to see how they are looking now.</div>
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All of the details and highlights are now done as well as the first weathering steps using some <a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod2250088a" target="_blank">Nihilakh Oxide</a> to give a patina to the Bronze. Then I have made my first step into painting chips onto armour plates with this army. I have only done this to the Bronze but I am aware I should do this to some of the other areas to make it a little more realistic. If I have the time towards the end of the project I might just do this but for now I am going to steam on to getting the other models painted.</div>
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I was really tentative with the paint chipping... I have always used a sponge and to show metal underneath armour plates. However, this does not give the realism needed so I decided I should bite the bullet. Looking back at them now I am actually much happier than when the paint goes on... actually painting it seems to break the illusion somewhat.</div>
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Another new step for me is the use of decal transfers. I haven't played with these since I was a kid. mainly because the effect I achieved with them as a kid was awful. In the past I would always freehand instead but that has led me to only add these sorts of details to characters etc. </div>
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Now I have tried some transfers I shall be using these as a core skill in my arsenal to add some interesting details to models in a quick way which can be easily batched unlike freehand. That is not to say I will never freehand again, simply that I can add more with these then I could do with freehand.</div>
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If I do say so myself these guys are really starting to look the part! It is worth noting that I used the tutorials on this blog by my good friend Joel for the paint chipping and transfers. They can be found <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/tutorial-weathering-infantry-with.html" target="_blank">here </a>and <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/tutorial-applying-transfer-decals.html" target="_blank">here </a>respectively.</div>
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MartokMartokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-33496975281297990882014-03-14T12:00:00.000+00:002014-03-14T12:00:04.600+00:00Tutorial - Painting Stubble<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Joel from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Paintmybits?fref=ts" target="_blank">PaintMyBits </a>has another Tutorial for you all. This time he will be going over the use of glazes to give your baldies a good 5 o'clock shadow.</i></div>
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<i>Read more to find out how he does this.</i></div>
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These are your ingredients for this assignment today. Kislev Flesh can be substituted for whatever mid tone you have used for your particular face.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFnclyrIZvrZOXFnTkP2gXafv61vF5VoH6DLfgISfqjxHN20i-B4FNyPik4QKmCn92qd0-7nH3D_ykWi-n-8zWCVqDRYicOvooDuYwq0RoiU3cE_eT46rfHCHThU-tWfSrQmClmHDCKY/s1600/Painting+Stubble+Tutorial+-+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFnclyrIZvrZOXFnTkP2gXafv61vF5VoH6DLfgISfqjxHN20i-B4FNyPik4QKmCn92qd0-7nH3D_ykWi-n-8zWCVqDRYicOvooDuYwq0RoiU3cE_eT46rfHCHThU-tWfSrQmClmHDCKY/s1600/Painting+Stubble+Tutorial+-+2.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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First up, mix the brown with your flesh colour. Now I could give you ratios here but I think you should mix to taste, gain some experience and practice. Just decide what you want, a real grubby two weeks in the field look or clean shaven subtle shadow.<br />
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Add in some grey to the mix. This part is where following what I say and experience will show. At this stage it may look dark enough for stubble but then you apply to the model and it does not show up. Because of this we can pop another brush tip of grey into the mix, just to be sure.<br />
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Take your painted face and put a nice thin layer of stubble where you want it to go. remembering your marines have a testosterone level only rivalled by Russell Brand, so make sure it follows a set hair line.<br />
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It will not show up very much either because of the glaze medium. </div>
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Let it dry and put another layer on.<br />
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Above shows two layers and as you can see your face has a lot more character already. You can go darker by adding more layers depending on what you want. If you do do this you may loose detail on your high/low lights.<br />
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To combat this you can just add a touch of brown to the mix to darken it and then selectively reapply any shadows on your stubbled area you feel you may have lost. This also works on the reverse, add a little more grey and flesh colour to lighten and go that step further and put small stubble highlights.<br />
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Shaved heads are done in the same way but I apply the paint in a different way after the initial couple of layers.<br />
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Using just detail brush you have been using after 2 thin layers to establish the hair line I then stipple the paint on.<br />
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Study a mate's shaved head, its not a uniform shade! Plus I reckon saving the Imperium every other day will lead to scars and the odd case of stress-induced alopecia.<br />
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Once again, changing of the tone ever so slightly will give more realistic results when gently stippled on.<br />
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All done. Please have some fun trying this. If it works for you, you will add a level of realism you will really be happy with. Experiment and push yourself, you will be surprised how easy this is with a steady hand.<br />
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<i>Thanks again Joel! Let us know what you would like Joel to cover in his next tutorial.</i><br />
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<i>Martok</i></div>
Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-34671257369224714182014-03-13T11:55:00.000+00:002014-03-13T13:46:54.066+00:00Review - Paint Rack by Sphere Products - Progressive Engineering Solutions Ltd<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_4N-EyvbfKq_d8-CcDJemzs40v3xEnvxBNUqZob87phxkFeRUDgyTZyH8k3uUXgtr5ga1gu8SiWdaT8mIL02hdOHSUEnsFyzvrbCGGAqjCVsl-qpY_QnSL1LWRGH8bFaZXJcdCIYhIm8/s1600/paint+rack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_4N-EyvbfKq_d8-CcDJemzs40v3xEnvxBNUqZob87phxkFeRUDgyTZyH8k3uUXgtr5ga1gu8SiWdaT8mIL02hdOHSUEnsFyzvrbCGGAqjCVsl-qpY_QnSL1LWRGH8bFaZXJcdCIYhIm8/s1600/paint+rack.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Greetings, BloodyDicers, Dangermouse425 here with a review of an excellent product I recently bought.<br />
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This is the Large 2-Tier paint rack by Sphere Products, part of Progressive Engineering Solutions, a UK-based company that has some awesome products available.<br />
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More after the jump...<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I bought one for my Citadel paints and one for my Vallejo paints, these racks make my paints a lot more accessible than before, but that's not the best part. I had a problem, as my Citadel paint collection was mostly new-style pots, but I did have a few of the old-style pots, as you can see from this crudely drawn diagram I sent them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNo99Tf5iY6tVaXCpABaa_DR2ygp_jYvvPt8qHPaemSEXVpOPE87vTDrTIwFKA0U48X08T6I8bJGWsfhDRxBOgD-i4x4W1s9LGFQWuwiOAkJcGctQl7pWw8vwtn_aiJvJ2wUufCU8mqjU/s1600/Paint+Amounts+and+Types.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNo99Tf5iY6tVaXCpABaa_DR2ygp_jYvvPt8qHPaemSEXVpOPE87vTDrTIwFKA0U48X08T6I8bJGWsfhDRxBOgD-i4x4W1s9LGFQWuwiOAkJcGctQl7pWw8vwtn_aiJvJ2wUufCU8mqjU/s1600/Paint+Amounts+and+Types.png" height="195" width="400" /></a></div>
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When you buy your rack you can decide if you want them sized for old-style Citadel paint, new-style Citdael paints, Vallejo dropper bottles, etc. I sent them the picture above, and the lovely chaps at Progressive Engineering custom-cut the upper tier of my rack to fit my whole collection, including a mix of slot sizes. They sent me a PDF of the design (see below) before they cut it to confirm it met my requirements, and within a few days I had my paint racks!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2v7PVL_6i4iywZqdNeJ3KmFUQiaACOTcDE_eMvYvmNYyOOYoDIpzQvGQm3IE2Syd6dl4TnD9yK6uwYcnFe7BAoZIPoBMl4mFZb9kuz3yMwvMtNcckvoergJpsKEKQkP_ZTr8HLXqMip0/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-13+at+09.34.42.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2v7PVL_6i4iywZqdNeJ3KmFUQiaACOTcDE_eMvYvmNYyOOYoDIpzQvGQm3IE2Syd6dl4TnD9yK6uwYcnFe7BAoZIPoBMl4mFZb9kuz3yMwvMtNcckvoergJpsKEKQkP_ZTr8HLXqMip0/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-13+at+09.34.42.png" height="281" width="400" /></a></div>
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The racks are made with sturdy MDF which is laser cut and then posted out to you ready for assembly. Assembly is simple and straightforward and only takes a few minutes. Lastly, they're designed and produced in the UK, so you're even supporting the economy whilst buying hobby supplies, you patriot!<br />
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If you fancy yourself a paint rack, workstation, or anything laser cut, check out Sphere Products by Progressive Engineering and tell them you saw this review.<br />
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<a href="http://www.progeng.co.uk/page-0#!__sphere">http://www.progeng.co.uk/page-0#!__sphere</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD79hCngIvJ2Axzrw3pAgYXTSieWQb2VgDcevOoQULx6FI7UmljcstQkkAvVx4fQYoqoe_UXA7epMqWyyVK-jlobrovO7U-jXEoAHAB39VuPmgJe4ZXkFjBPvUf93HbUIH5__oMAfxVbk/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-13+at+09.47.57.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD79hCngIvJ2Axzrw3pAgYXTSieWQb2VgDcevOoQULx6FI7UmljcstQkkAvVx4fQYoqoe_UXA7epMqWyyVK-jlobrovO7U-jXEoAHAB39VuPmgJe4ZXkFjBPvUf93HbUIH5__oMAfxVbk/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-03-13+at+09.47.57.png" height="212" width="400" /></a></div>
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Thanks for reading! My next post will be about my ongoing projects, and I seem to have a large amount!<br />
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Dangermouse425<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-16771903286230920452014-03-07T12:00:00.000+00:002014-03-07T20:49:27.675+00:00Tutorial - Weathering Vehicles with Oil Paints<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzegkqgvqncHoK9mzZvIijH91HWGMonO9fWgXwf4I70mSQIUKY9mf57XGHdJhWV7aNZ5UytQHoTovnvx32qheRJAfcVh4Wkgy-42A-4tsrBpspdIA6a9b5We7k7xpmOOhmA_WSqo15Do0/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+Close+Up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzegkqgvqncHoK9mzZvIijH91HWGMonO9fWgXwf4I70mSQIUKY9mf57XGHdJhWV7aNZ5UytQHoTovnvx32qheRJAfcVh4Wkgy-42A-4tsrBpspdIA6a9b5We7k7xpmOOhmA_WSqo15Do0/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+Close+Up.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i>Joel from PaintMyBits has another Tutorial for you all. This time he will be going over the use of oils to give a realistic finish to your vehicles.</i></div>
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<i>Read more to find out how he does this.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51T2k9xNWiASXk6Jjlw_KkC48EuhX02IRv7J_Vwz8-IcdmYNxgySRcrfPYqxfG69kBsM_x6Wi0P_tOTt2U9_Zp_3d12dRqaAYgcfUNAAGS5ZAd1VoQ2JCz_iPh43bygpTH_MwiS8tZWw/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51T2k9xNWiASXk6Jjlw_KkC48EuhX02IRv7J_Vwz8-IcdmYNxgySRcrfPYqxfG69kBsM_x6Wi0P_tOTt2U9_Zp_3d12dRqaAYgcfUNAAGS5ZAd1VoQ2JCz_iPh43bygpTH_MwiS8tZWw/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Today we shall be going over the process needed to give tanks the "been out in the rain" look.</div>
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First up you need one STC fresh tank with a coat of varnish applied to seal it (this is quite important or you will strip your paint job). Then some buff oil paint and some turps or similar product.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJKUvvJ-y2ybNBzNKiEiMoQbD9RWsc4wc1z0EwMUlK5yeJEXZRrAvdm36RLaNwJdrQoJlLHigQY9b6UQwHeGeLgSxIVtkYFfZcEZ5nCgwdM9kJTUn-2D_nMp-i6S1uZsEctgR0GFKy38/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJKUvvJ-y2ybNBzNKiEiMoQbD9RWsc4wc1z0EwMUlK5yeJEXZRrAvdm36RLaNwJdrQoJlLHigQY9b6UQwHeGeLgSxIVtkYFfZcEZ5nCgwdM9kJTUn-2D_nMp-i6S1uZsEctgR0GFKy38/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+2.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now take an old brush and put dots of the oil paint all over the tank.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZSt4bT6wQPgtnBtPDWVZmfIlueg9tJC9gjsuiJBwveEHCNm5h4gUzocXYw92Hk5DBD8ES_QiWFLU86rw1u8pYjZ3gCtgIYdMhoV3wEU4b6TC_CV2fXL0lfK3B2d31pFJhQB9DHd0Ac4/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZSt4bT6wQPgtnBtPDWVZmfIlueg9tJC9gjsuiJBwveEHCNm5h4gUzocXYw92Hk5DBD8ES_QiWFLU86rw1u8pYjZ3gCtgIYdMhoV3wEU4b6TC_CV2fXL0lfK3B2d31pFJhQB9DHd0Ac4/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+3.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Take a large flat brush and put some turps on it and pull the paint towards the ground or in direction of airflow when vehicle is moving forwards.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQpiDnfxkadWQEmTH5_-dcGiT1b-eKy4RZzYz6WPTe10LPV7Dxp5qiIHUcFyfOPvsSB8fDoTS_tsWYgYVPKuJbCEpbK1Uzmg7m-r22YkXDcv6vscYem3kBFXUjON0OCikirOSHBh34Ug/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXQpiDnfxkadWQEmTH5_-dcGiT1b-eKy4RZzYz6WPTe10LPV7Dxp5qiIHUcFyfOPvsSB8fDoTS_tsWYgYVPKuJbCEpbK1Uzmg7m-r22YkXDcv6vscYem3kBFXUjON0OCikirOSHBh34Ug/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+4.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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When the turps is wet the final result may not be that obvious so keep an eye on it. If the effect is too strong just re apply brush work again until it is just to your liking.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCojdsLByy6Fos6X3Jkh4k-TfAhVLkix-QsOj3vj0k1lAf_HApbMsMp-14Z25id_2jHgP6jTvklmfO-NVaYiS4SKm3NnOkjFcXtHXLwoxo_FINtOyn-J_CfEQRjcXQdNFAioaCnNGmlE/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCojdsLByy6Fos6X3Jkh4k-TfAhVLkix-QsOj3vj0k1lAf_HApbMsMp-14Z25id_2jHgP6jTvklmfO-NVaYiS4SKm3NnOkjFcXtHXLwoxo_FINtOyn-J_CfEQRjcXQdNFAioaCnNGmlE/s1600/Weathering+Vehicles+-+5.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Et voila</div>
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Remember to seal the model with varnish before applying any further weathering.</div>
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<i>I am bookmarking these tutorials for my own use! Let us know what you would like Joel to cover in his next tutorial.</i></div>
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<i>Martok</i></div>
<br />Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-43276930541671475312014-02-28T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-28T12:00:03.739+00:00Tutorial - Weathering Infantry with Chipping and Oil Paints<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE0ZjHijGelxmaVh8z2BA54bND_b-ung56LRsgvg_pxuRiwgStnzMp4rv4woXig63RbjYgTvCHnU9E_zgN76riXtV7jOXbIiLchLTgpl-M2bwfLYixeOdCsYsAYpm9bF9lkAAk4NFvFWI/s1600/Weathering+Tutorial+-+Close+Up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE0ZjHijGelxmaVh8z2BA54bND_b-ung56LRsgvg_pxuRiwgStnzMp4rv4woXig63RbjYgTvCHnU9E_zgN76riXtV7jOXbIiLchLTgpl-M2bwfLYixeOdCsYsAYpm9bF9lkAAk4NFvFWI/s1600/Weathering+Tutorial+-+Close+Up.jpg" height="165" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>After last weeks Tutorial which covered the application of decal transfers Joel from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Paintmybits?fref=ts" target="_blank">PaintMyBits</a> has provided another Tutorial for us taking a closer look at how to make your models look gritty and also how to hide some issues caused during painting or even the decal stage.</i></div>
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<i>Joel explains all after the jump.</i></div>
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Take a colour lighter than your lightest shade of your armour. In this case I used goblin green. Then take your smallest brush and apply in random patterns where you believe there will be heavy wear and where you want damage.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimPSPQdCwPXLg8cpGKEoFZMbWixQcjZ173y0lmvTKpJWEVRYPb_TUS_MEqN-ZZ3X3FrJLyDkxNhM4G7DqvKgHmHY0uKHF8UmNZ_Mph_wofFfy1NqLvHNIB57yaK45QupEadITKPApOaL8/s1600/Weathering+Tutorial+-+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimPSPQdCwPXLg8cpGKEoFZMbWixQcjZ173y0lmvTKpJWEVRYPb_TUS_MEqN-ZZ3X3FrJLyDkxNhM4G7DqvKgHmHY0uKHF8UmNZ_Mph_wofFfy1NqLvHNIB57yaK45QupEadITKPApOaL8/s1600/Weathering+Tutorial+-+2.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now I mix scorched brown with some black and apply over the green but where ever you can leaving the green showing on the bottom edge of the damage pattern. This won't always be possible so just employ a little artistic license.</div>
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You may have noticed I didn't put the chip on the raptors symbol on the area affected by my back decal cutting instead I put it above.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzXwVpG90_ELR6Gpdv13HZc8-IDYuNWXEXNKLXzzDRXTy7E3NTvIyJBigv1BZvpi-T7AiLKc1c3VNwvCYUsKDliaccorYxobdBtLXTrrGzhrtm3ZOJpJXeLsvjqZdN3nHD1UkeID_RCk/s1600/Weathering+Tutorial+-+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzXwVpG90_ELR6Gpdv13HZc8-IDYuNWXEXNKLXzzDRXTy7E3NTvIyJBigv1BZvpi-T7AiLKc1c3VNwvCYUsKDliaccorYxobdBtLXTrrGzhrtm3ZOJpJXeLsvjqZdN3nHD1UkeID_RCk/s1600/Weathering+Tutorial+-+4.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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For this you need an old detail brush. Oil paint. ( either mix red and orange to get a rust colour you like or migs dark rust pre made ones it matter not).</div>
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Then apply to the model in lines where you want some rusty streaks to be.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFCFDFEtJXGJsUd1svRgz7c20Tnf-a8ixjNv3uX7ILebhzxpPlxGdfq38FTXgLo1PBKCZ0zx8YZkby2xNKFsPE5Znq-uBGbwfsB42-Ue5ZR6-lYJkHVNcoIBuNDXejLVL8uwZ7bdcLTp0/s1600/Weathering+Tutorial+-+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFCFDFEtJXGJsUd1svRgz7c20Tnf-a8ixjNv3uX7ILebhzxpPlxGdfq38FTXgLo1PBKCZ0zx8YZkby2xNKFsPE5Znq-uBGbwfsB42-Ue5ZR6-lYJkHVNcoIBuNDXejLVL8uwZ7bdcLTp0/s1600/Weathering+Tutorial+-+5.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now you need a flat synthetic brush. And some turps/minerals. I use migs odourless turpentine.</div>
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Wet the flat brush and wipe off any excess and run it in the direction of the rust streak you want. Easy as that. There more you rub with the brush the more subtle the effect will be. Good thing about oils is that if you don't like it it rubs off nice and easy.<br />
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We have not covered weathering powders.. these shall be covered at a later date but for now these results are easily achieved by the novice painter and are more importantly quick for the effect you get.<br />
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<i>Thanks again Joel this series is full of great tips!</i><br />
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<i>Martok</i>Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-3475523673353426492014-02-26T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-26T12:00:13.173+00:00Warmahordes - Unit Review Legion of Everblight Legionnaires<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZej5y66U-RO2LsO4SXcz7aD0Rv6x1LQDLGzS4noKjffh_g5Y6p7szlcDO92kL0PEAd6nez1Od2BszafIA_UKIJJXTBcwWx5s88eHd_m60TqQdrOGVzTUHgR5BINO_uNLUvgTZq1u6uQ/s1600/steamroller.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZej5y66U-RO2LsO4SXcz7aD0Rv6x1LQDLGzS4noKjffh_g5Y6p7szlcDO92kL0PEAd6nez1Od2BszafIA_UKIJJXTBcwWx5s88eHd_m60TqQdrOGVzTUHgR5BINO_uNLUvgTZq1u6uQ/s1600/steamroller.png" height="98" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'm back after a well deserved rest for number 12 in the unit reviews, this time I'm going to be looking at a unit that I haven't used much in the past, the <b>Blighted Nyss Legionnaires</b>.<br />
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The <b>Legionnaires</b> are a unit that I don't tend to use, for my moving, aggressive playstyle I find them a bit static, but don't let this make you believe this is a poor unit, not at all, and it packs a surprising punch as well.<br />
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Their stats are very good for the points, POW 10 <b>Reach</b> swords with combined melee attack is not something to be taken lightly, and can easily ruin a forces day. One thing that is apparent looking at the stat line is the SPD 5 and DEF 12, both of these are below average for a Legion unit, however the ARM of 14 is higher (boosted to 16 in defensive line, which can be used when running) so it balances out a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfC4hEL6-R_P-xLcsXQx1IT8SJnkmBvlaqjJfI4eejamSYJ9KRYai9e71OvFeDt85wwxFEQJY0pJNdp7bF1ccew6fnESpg22ANAgWmnAWNJoPIdnypn0ctd-fy9GwbPIjqAJZdzrLdaf4/s1600/a9d6a4c2b96b71b9c5fe9d08e6f1245d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfC4hEL6-R_P-xLcsXQx1IT8SJnkmBvlaqjJfI4eejamSYJ9KRYai9e71OvFeDt85wwxFEQJY0pJNdp7bF1ccew6fnESpg22ANAgWmnAWNJoPIdnypn0ctd-fy9GwbPIjqAJZdzrLdaf4/s1600/a9d6a4c2b96b71b9c5fe9d08e6f1245d.jpg" height="320" width="247" /></a></div>
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One thing that stands out to me is that this is a defensive unit, having <b>Defensive Line</b> and <b>Vengeance</b> makes them very good at it, even allowing them to get 2 hits a turn (<b>Vengeance </b>then activation).<br />
A unit of 10 <b>Legionnaires </b>for 6 points will make it very difficult for your opponent to avoid, and dealing with them head on can be an issue quickly, a MAT of 6 gives them the ability to target a lot of units with a fair to high chance of hitting, quickly stopping an attack.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7vxX_ec1Mgwhr1KYTgwFOf2UUbXOTl2WNiFnSkre9VnunBmDwIVscDNfhG14Gv9ePlLQ2SKiYhprolfBzJbUY0nlC6J7t89kSPosZUo_qq6hqU9bPKw-Wad8nxAFg6ykKT1uGJROick/s1600/Ravagore.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC7vxX_ec1Mgwhr1KYTgwFOf2UUbXOTl2WNiFnSkre9VnunBmDwIVscDNfhG14Gv9ePlLQ2SKiYhprolfBzJbUY0nlC6J7t89kSPosZUo_qq6hqU9bPKw-Wad8nxAFg6ykKT1uGJROick/s1600/Ravagore.jpg" height="218" width="320" /></a></div>
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Personally I think this unit is very good, if it works in your list, for slower Legion armies where they can keep pace they make a great hold the line unit, and can deal a good amount of damage when they get stuck in, but they will struggle to be effective in a fast moving list, where the more offensive swordsmen are a better (and my personal) choice.<br />
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That's it for another week, now back to work.<br />
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GormagAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11734167740350030671noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-196499697407008662014-02-25T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-25T12:00:01.545+00:00Painting - Minotaur Centurions<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjpgXTUP1ed7mmcsvbBLKTvSNf0ubDHGw7uhcDC5aiWU8Tj-oZxhwQorAv4bTVSLr-Ww2KKBr3QUvpQ2iDC1v0c1yQ5BFQ9_rVX32ZxSa53PeNcZq27IlKV4JX-uNXEdMu1unfSXpB4-M/s1600/Minotuars+-+Centurions+-+Close+Up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjpgXTUP1ed7mmcsvbBLKTvSNf0ubDHGw7uhcDC5aiWU8Tj-oZxhwQorAv4bTVSLr-Ww2KKBr3QUvpQ2iDC1v0c1yQ5BFQ9_rVX32ZxSa53PeNcZq27IlKV4JX-uNXEdMu1unfSXpB4-M/s1600/Minotuars+-+Centurions+-+Close+Up.jpg" /></a></div>
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With the Word Bearers reinforced I have turned my attention back to the Minotaurs. I have actually finished the brush work on the Tactical/Sternguard squads now which leaves the Centurions, Terminators and Characters before moving on to painting the weapons for everyone.</div>
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A little colour has really brought these guys to life. However, more so than the rest of the army these large flat panels and plethora of edges really need some highlights to make them more interesting.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiI4uffdPIUdtbuDMsteHJFrBNtQaKs6TIKw6tYg1BFxepVLtvH4QlzFeiowyBUBONItn96SZ_L4pY7fEpfVKQSLBWrlnG_ro9l15t0wKMzl69JqTgfVXjeM_Wf6ERz7KxUM3pyNVBLAc/s1600/Minotuars+-+Centurions+-+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiI4uffdPIUdtbuDMsteHJFrBNtQaKs6TIKw6tYg1BFxepVLtvH4QlzFeiowyBUBONItn96SZ_L4pY7fEpfVKQSLBWrlnG_ro9l15t0wKMzl69JqTgfVXjeM_Wf6ERz7KxUM3pyNVBLAc/s1600/Minotuars+-+Centurions+-+2.jpg" height="278" width="320" /></a></div>
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I am trying to keep a rather limited pallet for the whole army which has meant painting is far more regimented and my process much quicker.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdXyKNJfqX-sZUQzp0YasWZ2sNRI-wcFI3tCYB0FqVYxH-BtnF97TcE7D4G5CCloetLWsPEZVucSPHcISMX6XxSkfIRVcFIa6tQUljS96KT1zbyCJQtOK9bBxuqxZO6BMThfCBDW9_Yo/s1600/Minotuars+-+Centurions+-+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdXyKNJfqX-sZUQzp0YasWZ2sNRI-wcFI3tCYB0FqVYxH-BtnF97TcE7D4G5CCloetLWsPEZVucSPHcISMX6XxSkfIRVcFIa6tQUljS96KT1zbyCJQtOK9bBxuqxZO6BMThfCBDW9_Yo/s1600/Minotuars+-+Centurions+-+3.jpg" height="275" width="320" /></a></div>
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I am really hoping that I can start work on bases etc and have the infantry for this army on the table top soon. Practicing with an army before a tournament is a must so even if I just play some 1000pt games it will be very beneficial.</div>
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Martok</div>
<br />Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-69073290315132503032014-02-21T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-21T12:00:00.628+00:00Tutorial - Applying Transfer Decals<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiY-Ahyphenhyphenhz8xOPk9sOjGegzx0ghHqjhlXW8n_YfoWA7urmmPK_fh6B_BPl0rHxA2XqE3glG-2KqO5yFlTGjiDgil1x1lT42ZnGQbd7I4DojYxuFmfxzbOppZY-_Uw2eMJQvjoRRzijtXg/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+Close+Up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfiY-Ahyphenhyphenhz8xOPk9sOjGegzx0ghHqjhlXW8n_YfoWA7urmmPK_fh6B_BPl0rHxA2XqE3glG-2KqO5yFlTGjiDgil1x1lT42ZnGQbd7I4DojYxuFmfxzbOppZY-_Uw2eMJQvjoRRzijtXg/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+Close+Up.jpg" /></a></div>
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<i>An often unused and misunderstood hobby skill is the use of decals. We get decal transfers with every box of 40k but unlike military scale modelers many in our hobby find these quite fiddly to work with. With few steps and the right tools these transfer sheets can add a wealth of detail saving a great deal of time that would be necessary to free hand these shapes.</i></div>
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<i>Read on to see how Joel from PaintMyBits gets decals to look good and sit right on a model.</i></div>
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First up you need to make sure your model is clean of any hair dust or wet paint. This is MEGA important.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykV_pTKOdiPjJk4D8UliGZsj5A3nbR5idkkjduROThF1gJis0Au86S0CsKp3Yk-FzDF_ExBD8eydEOnmnju_iUITvSVOOOOI-gWrsCBX8gnLcSYbbE61uVYu85OeSnNvLxdZk6acS9rU/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiykV_pTKOdiPjJk4D8UliGZsj5A3nbR5idkkjduROThF1gJis0Au86S0CsKp3Yk-FzDF_ExBD8eydEOnmnju_iUITvSVOOOOI-gWrsCBX8gnLcSYbbE61uVYu85OeSnNvLxdZk6acS9rU/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+2.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
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Most issues with decals are caused by the glossy halo left around the shapes you are applying. You need to cut the shape out exactly with a scalpel. This then removes this annoying effect. Sometimes the shape is too fiddly and it is impractical so I will address this too. But otherwise cut it out as cleanly as you can shaving as much of this decal flash off as you possibly can. </div>
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When this has been done give the decal a soak.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9j9i-Cou-LskeDCxRFh_abUpkhniuA8hWBH90soMPShsd143lrdDSZ2YyrxwUPoQkmezKUQPzkzRDJMaFjWArMZAQk4b4Mz2LbqNeKwCKBwlamEN1TUdd27NRmi41DyYIko6AwuPlOUc/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9j9i-Cou-LskeDCxRFh_abUpkhniuA8hWBH90soMPShsd143lrdDSZ2YyrxwUPoQkmezKUQPzkzRDJMaFjWArMZAQk4b4Mz2LbqNeKwCKBwlamEN1TUdd27NRmi41DyYIko6AwuPlOUc/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+3.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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You will need to apply this or a similar solution onto the area the decal is going. Do this while the decal is soaking.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbvOZaBkiQNwA0c0-Tg77mcBYUZmkyYtTQZy2YbPQ7BEUhN8Kn4zMGUkiMczbNJAQtbD8tHw4Y1kIr5_l38m11gQpNUo6JmspXU7aoeuqaoKvLylj4xLjmPkf6oMsnume2RXre8zk0HvI/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbvOZaBkiQNwA0c0-Tg77mcBYUZmkyYtTQZy2YbPQ7BEUhN8Kn4zMGUkiMczbNJAQtbD8tHw4Y1kIr5_l38m11gQpNUo6JmspXU7aoeuqaoKvLylj4xLjmPkf6oMsnume2RXre8zk0HvI/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+4.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Once it's in position and your happy it looks right take a piece of kitchen roll and press the decal onto the model. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Ys9RXG3ixxXkfLlvYIaPj2Vl376OI3OEuqjGEfMkCqfCH5sa5QfhwAsDQLbJmrdRr0YBIjuBXt8GNT8JGS52SOek2iNPy0-A1lUBUIYMP4zrCH7vIDqHTTdmv19kOGJEaVgjlp0MVLo/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Ys9RXG3ixxXkfLlvYIaPj2Vl376OI3OEuqjGEfMkCqfCH5sa5QfhwAsDQLbJmrdRr0YBIjuBXt8GNT8JGS52SOek2iNPy0-A1lUBUIYMP4zrCH7vIDqHTTdmv19kOGJEaVgjlp0MVLo/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+5.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">PRESS DO NOT DRAG. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIUnhmG6kzBiL-nDGKMiv3umi4NfZd-LWveJJdZFqioXNAA0_Tbqeq6SXQ8aqmZ6EO5nfQumlyN65yNSHCRClO8c10eQSuLDharDML7pPtlrRyXVpzSg9R9KeYGPJKYSMlqXzxEAbZ6w/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIUnhmG6kzBiL-nDGKMiv3umi4NfZd-LWveJJdZFqioXNAA0_Tbqeq6SXQ8aqmZ6EO5nfQumlyN65yNSHCRClO8c10eQSuLDharDML7pPtlrRyXVpzSg9R9KeYGPJKYSMlqXzxEAbZ6w/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+6.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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This pressing will eliminate any air underneath the decal and will help with a uniform colour and adhesion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Sae-oS4cs4zE_bRGZUsH9g_kHpU8HLPp4I1HaLKKgHq-olVwVlmcJvGd1MbKFCKLFUyJXKhlnfalNUbwyO7P2ZqedygWwFm7lAfFCvZz182YtcrkveGJlYjcqYDD_4a8TUC3FBDmiLk/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Sae-oS4cs4zE_bRGZUsH9g_kHpU8HLPp4I1HaLKKgHq-olVwVlmcJvGd1MbKFCKLFUyJXKhlnfalNUbwyO7P2ZqedygWwFm7lAfFCvZz182YtcrkveGJlYjcqYDD_4a8TUC3FBDmiLk/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+7.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Once it's been drying for a few minutes give it a sparing coat again with the decal fix.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOT3V3DJH2MPrPvt5ggbKYNMDJ7aI9XrM4QPRPpwPMI9w0BI3ONusRqNqDJ1xp7X4Fc41P3lousr6DTmckx1XFoPHH1TLAAG1kN482Er_gX75Fz-5DUuZaePJBnS9eV6OhYEU5dfBHAp4/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOT3V3DJH2MPrPvt5ggbKYNMDJ7aI9XrM4QPRPpwPMI9w0BI3ONusRqNqDJ1xp7X4Fc41P3lousr6DTmckx1XFoPHH1TLAAG1kN482Er_gX75Fz-5DUuZaePJBnS9eV6OhYEU5dfBHAp4/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+8.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now we can cover irregular shapes. You can see the size of the decal on this curved surface is causing a ripple.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd2EAXCtccqp764JH1sDvKg0ulQtxhEVMAQS1GFnxXoa6qY6-PlMHm9q1WycW84PCiMgNV_wsurnvH7KtP3gsS-QtswreQP4XeRqcQV_a7Z1IQyZwB_exH7xy-dUCgxpcQ-Atn6WYczqg/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd2EAXCtccqp764JH1sDvKg0ulQtxhEVMAQS1GFnxXoa6qY6-PlMHm9q1WycW84PCiMgNV_wsurnvH7KtP3gsS-QtswreQP4XeRqcQV_a7Z1IQyZwB_exH7xy-dUCgxpcQ-Atn6WYczqg/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+9.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Once you have pressed down to get rid of all the air and there are certain ripples that won't go take a scalpel making sure the point is at the inner most start of the ripple and ROLL the blade to the edge of the decal cutting a slit into it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6PMr7QkyVe89Vmj3TjsBKIZNtXsWs1zEUd5lMXHSmnEwZTnrb5eAysjdRFglZz5yqQHxtpWV0WJS0UD1ynupKsAq7qGguCc8SBIU1VvcDdAjGjHBizBZpJLst-tVqo21eIQafc6DR4Zk/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6PMr7QkyVe89Vmj3TjsBKIZNtXsWs1zEUd5lMXHSmnEwZTnrb5eAysjdRFglZz5yqQHxtpWV0WJS0UD1ynupKsAq7qGguCc8SBIU1VvcDdAjGjHBizBZpJLst-tVqo21eIQafc6DR4Zk/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+10.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Dab it down and add a little decal fix again.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVp6N0cbL_-elG-jv4LPM5kFVo4VZi68hnwD9Iknx6a3JF2jZi0rrzrDpOwNgZUa1GfFqvHBDbqjb5vKF6QIstBn7TKYJHltni3q2bfAETi6WwE-djQYqtbly_nyOKHPsA8TZuS8w38o/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVp6N0cbL_-elG-jv4LPM5kFVo4VZi68hnwD9Iknx6a3JF2jZi0rrzrDpOwNgZUa1GfFqvHBDbqjb5vKF6QIstBn7TKYJHltni3q2bfAETi6WwE-djQYqtbly_nyOKHPsA8TZuS8w38o/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+11.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now we have pretty looking and tidy decals don't be afraid to add layers of decals to form more complicated shapes and patterns.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicwlI2YmMwb9hV9Dy7KTXg9ZA5xFqhHJ1gdDq_2l9HLn3R8bTAujCy2UgFpC-tx1NKI7_w8fuG4t-8CRw3AOO3v8uT_Ne8JRRZq1wuyCaI6sXTTwj9ZmJIJ7MLHQIXyEIBu88nytLPeqo/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicwlI2YmMwb9hV9Dy7KTXg9ZA5xFqhHJ1gdDq_2l9HLn3R8bTAujCy2UgFpC-tx1NKI7_w8fuG4t-8CRw3AOO3v8uT_Ne8JRRZq1wuyCaI6sXTTwj9ZmJIJ7MLHQIXyEIBu88nytLPeqo/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+12.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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One of the easiest ways to make a decal look more natural is to paint over it. I don't mean a whacking great dollop of your fave GW concoction. Just a well watered down couple of layers. This will also help hide any clumsy scalpel work too.</div>
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Once a coat of varnish has been applied as above these decals should blend seamlessly as seen below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihk1gRxJMVWQI46q-yJhaxK7EQ_Uvqx3BbWhilnRTrWXvobKhBQQBwI7EyxomJVDDBnyAZUfgM3CqcYlymXQn-yOmrgS7AEABB_zuIZphJKGgqHTB-cmNd55FO4HFbGE7LxR1YO0kJ6p0/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihk1gRxJMVWQI46q-yJhaxK7EQ_Uvqx3BbWhilnRTrWXvobKhBQQBwI7EyxomJVDDBnyAZUfgM3CqcYlymXQn-yOmrgS7AEABB_zuIZphJKGgqHTB-cmNd55FO4HFbGE7LxR1YO0kJ6p0/s1600/Decal+Transfer+Tutorial+-+13.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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DONE!</div>
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But wait.. There's more... We can use other techniques not only to enhance the model but continue to hide the unnatural appearance of these pesky sheets of paper GW plonk in our boxes. </div>
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Now you may have noticed a bad edge to the left of the decal? This was left on purpose just to show you how to save any potential moments of panic you may have. Now the first thing I do for this is to simply paint over with the armour colour. Which is exactly what I did. However, what about the lovely airbrushed smooth armour that now has brush strokes over it? Return to BLOODYdice next week to see how I apply weathering on potential problem areas or mistakes.</div>
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<div>
<i>Thanks to Joel for sharing the secrets of his trade.</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
<div>
<i>Martok</i></div>
<br />Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-89195020334521855362014-02-20T12:00:00.001+00:002014-02-20T12:00:08.905+00:00Tutorial - Digicam Stencils<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US">Here is a tutorial for anyone wishing to
use digicam stencils on vehicles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The stencils I used were from Critical Mass Wargames.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After following the tutorial after the jump, your model
should look something like this.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130708_104029_zpsab87fa5d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130708_104029_zpsab87fa5d.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The colours I use are Vallejo Model Air
colours:</div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Light Grey</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Medium Sea Grey</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Dark Sea Grey</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Obviously you can choose your own scheme,
or copy this one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The choice is
yours.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The first thing I did was prime the
aircraft white and preshade along the panel lines in black. With the amount of
layers going over the preshading, you might not see the benefits of preshading
on the dark colours, but it certainly helps to add depth for the lightest grey.</span></div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/digicam_zps82477111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/digicam_zps82477111.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The first layer of paint was applied over
the preshading in the lightest colour. You can see the effects of the
preshading here. (Ignore the wings, they were done separately).</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">NB: Let the undercoat and first layer of
paint dry sufficiently before you start applying stencils. In an ideal world
you would Prime and Shade one day, the first layer the next day, and second the
day after, etc.</span></div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130630_165731_zps7e553789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130630_165731_zps7e553789.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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The first layer of paint is the covered
with stencils like this. Here you can see where the stencils ripped some of the
paint up when I was repositioning it, hence my warning above.</div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130630_173927_zps14047e81.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130630_173927_zps14047e81.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Here are the wings covered in the first
layer of templates, ready for their second coat.</span></div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130701_200746_zps9d2611ef.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130701_200746_zps9d2611ef.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/digicam2_zpsaff032bb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/digicam2_zpsaff032bb.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Here is the main hull covered in the first
layer of templates, before the second layer of paint.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Of course, it's up to you to decide how
much coverage you want, but the most important thing to ensure is that all the
vertical and horizontal lines match up. It's really worth taking your time over
this to get it right.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">With a model like a Valkyrie, it's quite straight
forward as Imperial vehicles are very blocky and angular. The tail boons were
the only issue really. I can imagine Tau vehicles being a pain!</span></div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130630_183825_zpsae65b082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130630_183825_zpsae65b082.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130710_204420_zpsf11aa698.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130710_204420_zpsf11aa698.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The second layer of stencils needs to be
carefully placed over the first layer after the Medium Sea Grey (or your middle
colour) has dried. It's important to overlap the first layer of templates. Try
and break up as much of the natural shape of the model as possible.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">You are now ready to spray your third layer
of paint and wait for it to dry, properly.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Resist the temptation to peel off the
templates right away, as you will only destroy your hard work. I suggest a
sharp modeling knife to gently lift up each corner, and a pair of tweezers to
slowly peel off the rest. Any paint you rip off can be later covered up with
battle damage. (More on which later)</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Anyway, with a touch of luck, you should
end up with something like this:</span></div>
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<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130708_104029_zpsab87fa5d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/Danger_Mouse/Elysians/20130708_104029_zpsab87fa5d.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Be warned, this will take AGES if done
properly. I half want to add more Valkyries to my Elysian army, but I'm not
sure I can face more time putting little stickers onto the models! The surface
area of the Valkyrie hull is larger than it seems!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">- </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Templates are from <a href="http://www.criticalmassgames.com/default.asp?category=maskfx" target="_blank">Critical Mass Games</a></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">I must thank the guys at BuyPainted.com for
their excellent and simple-to-follow tutorials on all sorts of subjects, but
specifically for their Digicam one <a href="http://buypainted.com/index.php/uncategorized/how-to-paint-digital-camo-on-a-model/" target="_blank">here</a>.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">Dangermouse</span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-51491593301239583402014-02-19T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-19T12:00:07.118+00:00Painting - Word Bearer Reinforcements<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheNBEF4VWkTmlCOLc6Mr3BsuJR3SpQRTx2rfXHFpG0SN1SD1JKUiamGevs2IkyujLNMZUPDIdrAqsdS7G0mB8DvSX8pKdr3qd6bV5K2dJoY340M7u8cXmuyjptKr_dMlB8pU1KZeCbQhc/s1600/Word+Bearers+-+Dark+Apostle+on+Juggernaut+-+Closeup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheNBEF4VWkTmlCOLc6Mr3BsuJR3SpQRTx2rfXHFpG0SN1SD1JKUiamGevs2IkyujLNMZUPDIdrAqsdS7G0mB8DvSX8pKdr3qd6bV5K2dJoY340M7u8cXmuyjptKr_dMlB8pU1KZeCbQhc/s1600/Word+Bearers+-+Dark+Apostle+on+Juggernaut+-+Closeup.jpg" /></a></div>
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Although I did not complete this batch of models over the weekend as planned I have at least got them up to a playable standard now. I may come back to these guys and add highlights/oil washes/weathering when time permits. Right now I am just looking forward to seeing them on the board.</div>
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Dark Apostle of Khorne on Juggernaut</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtLIdWR4ouw8UUv6j1aaGjtJ_yCxxqsOjpnlBifn2nbbho6KSCJl88F3_jccE5DpkmuYm4Elxb8Nc31OvjWWr7XGp8WkK5PMVrVZnVF6YTXX8x0TRPBC6QGCfnaY2-tBxd-g-p9qHxSs/s1600/Word+Bearers+-+Chaos+Lord+on+Juggernaut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtLIdWR4ouw8UUv6j1aaGjtJ_yCxxqsOjpnlBifn2nbbho6KSCJl88F3_jccE5DpkmuYm4Elxb8Nc31OvjWWr7XGp8WkK5PMVrVZnVF6YTXX8x0TRPBC6QGCfnaY2-tBxd-g-p9qHxSs/s1600/Word+Bearers+-+Chaos+Lord+on+Juggernaut.jpg" height="320" width="278" /></a></div>
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Chaos Lord of Khorne on Juggernaut</div>
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My Obliterator Sorcerers Squad 1 </div>
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My Obliterator Sorcerers Squad 2</div>
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Finally painting the Obliterators is a personal result.. they have been waiting for paint for quite some time now so it is good to see them ready to game even if they are lacking a bunch of details.</div>
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Now back tot he Minotaurs!</div>
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Martok</div>
Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-62308044041766934932014-02-18T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-18T12:00:09.808+00:00Hobby: Basing Time<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCogIAObG2qz_JyU8Ej3CCfFjtU0Kq7IisVxGzQRWMxhyei6t0r84Ysk3SJAWLATmB8E9HBgN221kT-3CwfVDhjVAtyvKz9SXYx3tMgUIVUWkDE-dZJ6NUXlFEmMv0COb6fU8ASedvVMg/s640/blogger-image-1801139679.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCogIAObG2qz_JyU8Ej3CCfFjtU0Kq7IisVxGzQRWMxhyei6t0r84Ysk3SJAWLATmB8E9HBgN221kT-3CwfVDhjVAtyvKz9SXYx3tMgUIVUWkDE-dZJ6NUXlFEmMv0COb6fU8ASedvVMg/s400/blogger-image-1801139679.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A small update today showing off the basing work for the few Word Bearers I need to finish for this weekends <a href="http://www.bristolvanguard.co.uk/Bristol_Vanguard/Vanquish_Skirmish_2014.html" target="_blank">Vanquish Skirmish</a> tournament at Bristol Vanguard Wargaming. This were thrown together with some pumice and then various scatter using brass etch, rocks, skulls etc.</div>
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I shall slap some paint on these guys and then my rush job Word Bearers will be ready to show off. After that back to the Minotaurs!!</div>
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Martok</div>
Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-24064026183574068332014-02-17T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-20T06:14:06.633+00:00Kitbash - Another Inquisitor and Servitors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I just couldn't help myself.<br />
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First it was just Coteaz and a small crew of three Servitors with Multi-Meltas. Then I found a few more GW Flagellant bodies... Then a few Plasma Cannons...<br />
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Suddenly, before I know it, I've got another three Servitors and they're in need of another Inqusitor!<br />
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Digging through one of my many boxes of models, bits and assorted hobby goodness I found the Titan Crew from Forge World. The model just exudes that sneering arrogance that I can imagine a Inquisitor having.<br />
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Back with more soon!<br />
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Dangermouse</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-88533964125834967792014-02-14T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-14T12:00:03.953+00:00Kitbash - Dark Apostle and Chaos Lord on Juggernauts <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As discussed in my last post regarding the <a href="http://bloody-dice.blogspot.com/2014/02/painting-second-batch-of-minotaur.html" target="_blank">Minotaurs painting progress</a>, I need to create a Dark Apostle and Chaos Lord for my Word Bearer army as I shall be using the force for a few upcoming tournaments. Also it might be a possibility that the Minotaurs will take longer than hoped so this force will also be a back up for <a href="http://www.bristolvanguard.co.uk/Bristol_Vanguard/Vanquish_2014.html" target="_blank">Bristol Vanguard's Vanquish Tournament</a>.</div>
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Pictures after the jump.</div>
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The actual kits used are simpler than my usual kitbashes using the Skull Crusher kit for most of the model and then some shoulder pads from Warriors of Chaos, a sword from the Chaos Knights set and then back packs from the Dark Vengeance Chosen and Chaos Lord.<br />
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This guy is a Dark Apostle armed with the Murdersword as well as a Dark Crozius. The Crozius will be attached to his leg ready to be drawn if the need arises. In game terms if he isn't using the Murder Sword against its chosen victim and the enemy has a save better than 3+ he might as well start swinging the Mace. </div>
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I was going to go with a more ostentatious look to suit the mantle of Dark Apostle but given all the preachers of the Word Bearers I felt an Apostle dedicated to Khorne would show his worship by taking heads on the battlefield rather than his panoply or oration. Therfore, I went for a menacing no nonsense pose with him gesturing to the victim of his Murder special rule.</div>
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Currently the models are just tacked to the Juggernauts as I want to paint them separately. The Juggernauts will get the same Bronze as my Minotaurs and the riders will get my Word Bearers deep red.</div>
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You may have noticed that both models are currently missing the riders legs. Due to the way the model is designed with the saddle and riders pelvis attached to the Juggernaut I will need to paint pretty much everything separately and then assemble at the end. The legs are currently pinned together for ease of airbrushing.</div>
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Both characters are taking the Sigil of Corruption for a 4++. I considered a number of options of how to represent this but in the end it made sense to use a shield. Technically they still have a second CCW in the form of a bolt pistol which I still need to find a way to attach to the models.</div>
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My first instinct was to scratchbuild an Axe of Blind Fury but given the time restraints I felt the double headed axe from the Skull Cruisher kit fit the bill with a minimum of effort. Sometimes simpler really is</div>
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If all goes according to plan these two HQs as well as 6 Obliterators will be painted and based by the end of the weekend as I need to get straight back to the Minotaurs to have any hope of finishing them for <a href="http://www.bristolvanguard.co.uk/Bristol_Vanguard/Vanquish_2014.html" target="_blank">Bristol Vanguard's Vanquish Tournament</a>.</div>
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Martok</div>
Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-30270766786480995812014-02-13T12:00:00.001+00:002014-02-13T12:00:00.912+00:00Painting - Second Batch of Minotaur Sternguard <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Much the same as with the last combat squad. Building up the highlights and a few more washes. Then detailing like script on purity seals etc. Hopefully this squad will be complete by the end of the week. Then I shall decide whether to do the guns/heads/bases or to move on and do another squad.. we shall see. Either way I need to hurry up. </div>
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I should really concentrate on this force exclusively but I need to build 2 Chaos Lords on Juggernauts as well as get them and 6 Obliterators painted for a Tournament this month.... shall be easier than rushing the Minotaurs for the same event.</div>
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Martok</div>
Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-12186729589442530252014-02-12T12:00:00.000+00:002014-02-12T12:00:06.817+00:00Warmahordes - Legion of Everblight Beast Mistress Unit Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm back, after a week off and a bit of a delay I have returned (and I couldn't take any more beatings from Martok) with the next installment in the unit review series. This week we are looking at one of the most interesting releases in the Gargantuans book, the <b>Beast Mistress</b>.<br />
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This solo is one of the most interesting in the legion force, and one that will allow for some very interesting options. One thing to keep in mind is that she is not a warlock, she may hare some of their rules, but she does not count as one, the reason I point this out will become clear later.<br />
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She has a Battlegroup consisting of only lesser Warbeasts, I see this character with 3-4 <b>Shredders</b> being a nice solid multi-wound unit for 9-11 points, she only has a Fury stat of 4, so taking beasts that can be fury efficient is very useful, although her aggressive <b>Field Marshal</b> ability, allowing the Warbeasts in her Battlegroup to charge or run for free helps a lot.<br />
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Her stats are nothing to be amazed by, her <b>Pathfinder</b> ability is very useful allowing her to keep pace with her beasts. Her DEF of 14 should help keep her out of harms way most of the time, but with a low ARM stat and 5 damage boxes, it won't take much to remove her from the game, although she can transfer damage.<br />
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Her spell list is decent, she has a ranged spell that causes the <b>Corrosion </b>effect, and another that allows her to gain additional movement from her beasts, something that should help getting charges from just the right angle, she also gains the spells from her lesser beasts.<br />
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The reason I pointed out the lack of being a Warlock is due to something I first considered doing with this solo, combining it with the <b>Spawning Vessel</b> and having a cheap way to get a nice, powerful multi wound unit that could potentially keep going for a long time adding to it's ranks and be a nightmare of a meat-grinder, however the <b>Spawning Vessel</b> can only add beasts to a Warlocks Battlegroup, and as the <b>Beast Mistress</b> is not a Warlock (although she has all the Warlock rules) she cannot benefit from this.<br />
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Well that's it for another week. I'm really looking forward to giving this solo a fair bit of game time in the future, if you've had any luck with it let me know.<br />
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GormagAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11734167740350030671noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-68512231648596062552014-02-11T12:24:00.001+00:002014-02-20T06:14:20.724+00:00Kitbash - Coteaz and Servitors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Having had my precious Sternguard utterly ravaged by Coteaz, when playing a friend last week, due to his "I've Been Expecting You" rule I decided (once I had overcome my rage) to join the cheesy beard club and make my own Coteaz and crew for an Inquisitorial detachment.</div>
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Finding the metal Coteaz model I had tucked away was one thing, but it was the Servitors that were the most challenging/fun to build. It wasn't a complex conversion by any stretch of the imagination, but I wanted to create a unique Servitor, whilst maintaining the "style" of the GW models.</div>
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So, hobby knife in hand, I scoured my bits box for Multi-Meltas and appropriate bits, I created this little gang.</div>
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C&C welcome, feel free to ask questions, or share your own kitbashed Servitors in the comments section.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-40086614123206764122014-02-10T11:00:00.000+00:002014-02-10T11:00:10.915+00:00Hobby - Painting Minotaurs Sternguard<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
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I have made some good progress with the first five Sternguard. All colours have been painted now but more processes to come. First some decals then onto oil washes and finally weathering.</div>
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The red has been quite the struggle and I am still to add a final highlight. The oil wash should do a lot to improve the contrast on the reds.</div>
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I am chuffed with the bronze and I am looking forward to painting the highlights. When they are done the model should "pop" as they say.</div>
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I have just remembers I need to do the script on all the purity seals. Shall be easier to do when a varnish has been applied.</div>
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I will most likely start the other half of the squad and then do the next processes all together. More pics of these guys soon.</div>
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- Martok</div>
Martokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3776400017309074289.post-38642030484191826592014-02-07T11:00:00.000+00:002014-02-07T11:00:06.515+00:00Hobby - Detailing the Minotaurs Sternguard<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I am still marching on with this project. I have now blocked out all the other colours on the first five Sternguard. In a video by Les Bursley about painting red he advises that you use pinks to highlight reds. I have always been unsure with reds as I do not like the finish orange highlights give but pink just feels wrong. Having said that, I think it actually looks pretty good. I still need to tidy up some dumb highlighting etc and then I shall be putting glazes over the red so the pink will be less pink and more red at the end.</div>
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I hope to have these guys fully complete by the end of the weekend so I can use them as the benchmark for the army.<br />
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MartokMartokhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11697968385925569849noreply@blogger.com0